Thursday, April 10, 2014

Corsair Of Brittany...

Wandering Around The Cottage - April 2014 Edition


Hôtel d'Asfeld - Saint-Malo - Brittany


We're having rather nice weather this spring in Brittany. Now I hope you believe me, because unfortunately, you'll need your gloves and hat for today's wandering edition as the day I went visiting for you was quite a cold one. If you're Canadian, please put your tank top on, cold in Brittany means about 5°C or 40°F.


La Bretagne connaît un printemps plutôt agréable avec de belles et chaudes journées... Mais il va falloir me croire sur parole car le jour où j'ai fait ma petite excursion pour vous, le temps n'était pas de la partie comme vous pourrez le voir sur mes photos... Alors enfilez vos moufles et n'oubliez pas votre écharpe, je vous emmène à Saint-Malo.


Saint-Malo is an old city on the North coast of Brittany and the oldest part of the town is still enclosed by walls that were built in 1723. Let's walk to it, shall we?


La vieille cité de Saint-Malo est encore entourée de ses murailles qui datent de 1723. Suivez-moi!


See how everybody else is walking the other way? Story of my life...

Comme toujours, il semble que je marche à contre-sens du reste des gens...


Saint-Malo is famous for these tall stone houses that were mostly built in the 17th and 18th centuries. Since the weather isn't the best today, I thought it would be nice to go inside one of those houses, don't you think? For that, we need to go through the walls first.

Some of you wanted to "see" me... That's me with a pink hat and a dark coat. Hello! - my mom took the pic.
Saint-Malo intra muros est célèbre pour ses grandes maisons en pierre aux fenêtres à petits carreaux construites entre le XVIIe siècleet le XVIIIe siècle pour la plupart. Comme le temps n'est pas vraiment de la partie, je vous propose de visiter l'une d'elles. Pour cela, il faut d'abord passer les murs de la ville.


The house we're going to visit is called the Hôtel d'Asfeld and it belonged to François-Auguste Magon de la Lande, who was a corsair to Louis XIV. Please, don't make François-Auguste angry by calling him a "pirate"! As "corsair", he was authorized by the king to attack any ship belonging to a country France was at war with. Saint-Malo was the city where most corsairs lived and it has been nicknamed "Corsair City".


Nous nous rendons donc à l'Hôtel d'Asfeld, demeure de François-Auguste Magon de la Lande, corsaire du Roi. Attention, on ne confond pas avec "pirate": le corsaire, lui, a l'autorisation écrite du roi d'attaquer les bateaux, mais il doit se contenter de ceux qui appartiennent à des pays contre lesquels la France est en guerre. Il reverse une partie de son butin au roi, mais cela ne l'empêche pas de faire fortune.


This mansion was built in the 17th century and it has 59 rooms and 12 staircases... So basically, it was easy, for those who knew the house, to disappear from one room to an other when it was needed... And that was really useful, as you'll see later.


La demeure, construite au XVIIe siècle, comporte 59 pièces et 12 escaliers: cela permet de se rendre en toute discrétion d'une pièce à l'autre, ce qui est parfois bien nécessaire comme vous le verrez dans un instant.


François-Auguste was also one of the director of the "Compagnie des Indes Orientales", which brought back to France precious things like cotton fabric, tea, coffee, spices.


François-Auguste était aussi l'un des directeurs de la Compagnie des Indes Orientales qui ramène en France des tissus en coton (qu'on appelle des "indiennes"), du thé, du café, des épices...


François-Auguste would invite people he thought could be customers in his beautiful mansion: the first floor rooms are definitely designed to impress. I was in love with the painted panelling in soft colours. Would it qualify as "seaglass" colours? I think so.


L'armateur recevait ses clients potentiels dans ses salons du rez-de-chaussée qui avaient pour but premier d'impressionner... Cela a fonctionné sur moi qui suis tombée amoureuse des couleurs douces utilisées sur les boiseries.


I wondered for a long time of anyone would notice if I took that lovely chest with me...


Je me suis demandée pendant un moment si quelqu'un remarquerait si j'emmenais au Cottage cette jolie commode...


Here are some of the spices that were traded by François-Auguste. Each was very expensive because the journey from Saint-Malo to India and back to Saint-Malo took four years.

Now, in those beautiful rooms, hot chocolate would be served as it was the trendy drink at that time, as we've already seen it in a previous post. But if François-Auguste wanted to talk to you about a special deal, he opened a tiny door hidden in the panneling and asked you to go up those stairs... I'm sorry it's blurry, the light wasn't the best, but you see how narrow they are.


Le voyage aller-retour Saint-Malo-Inde dure environ quatre ans, ce qui explique le prix très élevé que peuvent atteindre les denrées rapportées par la Compagnie des Indes Orientales. Aussi, les clients sont reçus comme il se doit avec un chocolat chaud alors à la mode... Mais si François-Auguste veut vous proposer un prix spécial, alors il ouvre une porte cachée dans les panneaux de bois et vous demande de monter par ce petit escalier étroit.


It's in this room where the ceiling is very low (because it's actually hidden between two floors) that all the deals were decided.

C'est dans cette pièce au plafond très bas, car elle est située entre deux étages, que se concluent toutes les bonnes affaires.


Now that the deal is done, maybe you'd like to see what you've bought? So let's go back to the entrance and find a little door behind the beautiful staircase. We'll go down to the basement.


Maintenant que vous avez conclu votre marché, peut-être aimeriez-vous voir ce que vous avez acheté? Descendons donc à la cave.


Here we are below the sea level. To the right and the left of that corridor are rooms that were too dark to take pictures where the spices, the tea, the coffee would have been kept. You were supposed to declare everything you brought back from India to pay taxes on it. But François-Auguste, as all his colleagues, would often cheat. So all the basements of all the houses in Saint-Malo communicated with each others. Thus you could put a few things away very quickly in your neighbour's basement, if an inspector showed up at your door step!

Là, nous sommes sous le niveau de la mer. A droite et à gauche de ce couloir, des salles trop sombres pour mon appareil photo contenaient les denrées ramenées d'Indes. François-Auguste, comme tout le monde, a tendance à en déclarer moins qu'il n'en ramène pour éviter de payer certains impôts... Mais tout est prévu! Les caves de toutes les maisons de Saint-Malo communiquent, histoire de pouvoir déplacer les choses en vitesse dans les caves du voisin si un inspecteur arrive!

Cat door - cats were used to avoid rats eating what was in the basement!

It was also a way to go from one house to the other at night. In Saint-Malo, since 1155, a bell, called Noguette, rings every day at 10pm and it's the curfew: nobody's allowed outside after "noguette". Then, twenty-four hungry dogs were unleashed on the beach to guard the boats!

C'est aussi une façon de se déplacer la nuit. En effet, depuis 1155, à Saint-Malo, une cloche, appelée Noguette, sonne à dix heures du soir le couvre-feu. Ensuite, interdiction de sortir et on lâche vingt-quatre dogues sur la plage pour protéger les bateaux!

Noguette still rings in Saint-Malo, though there's no curfew anymore!

Noguette sonne toujours, mais il n'y a plus de couvre-feu!

Saint-Malo is the closest town to my parents' cottage. So I go there every now and then, but I usually don't take pictures: I go shopping! I promise I'll go back with my camera someday so I can show you the town.

Saint-Malo est située à deux pas de chez mes parents, du coup, quand je m'y rends, je n'ai généralement pas mon appareil photo avec moi: c'est plutôt "journée shopping". Je vous promets que la prochaine fois, je ne me chargerai pas de sacs et je prendrai des photos pour vous montrer la ville!

I hope you enjoyed visiting François-Auguste's mansion!

J'espère que vous avez apprécié cette visite, que je vous recommande sincèrement si vous passez par Saint-Malo: le guide est captivant!

A bientôt,

See you soon,



PS1: I created a "Wandering Around" page for those of you who missed some of these posts or for those of you who are new here and would like to find out more about the amazing places surrounding the Cottage.

PS2: I'm partying with some awesome bloggers.

 Rooted In Thyme              Join me on Fridays and see where we've all been!             Travel Photo Monday

             

44 comments:

  1. The passages under houses is fascinating, and that sitting room is so pretty even by today standards. Love your pink hat. ♡

    ReplyDelete
  2. We used to love a visit to St Malo, though I have to admit more for the seafood restaurants than the history! It is a fascinating place to stroll through. I think I would have given in to temptation and picked up the chest and run! Oh, and also the wall paper with roses.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks so much for the lovely tour. I would have a panic attack if I had to go up those stairs to that room. The home is beautiful and all the furnishings are stunning. How grand to be able to live in a place like that. WOW. Thanks so much for this tour - great city.
    Mary

    ReplyDelete
  4. I loved one more blogpost!AriadnefromGreece!

    ReplyDelete
  5. J'ai beaucoup aimé cette visite, ça ferait un bien joli petit pied à terre. Mgr
    Bisous bisous. Babette

    ReplyDelete
  6. That is so cool....not the weather of course as I was wearing my tank (Canadian hey)! You are definitely the best person to travel with! We get to see so many cool places!

    ReplyDelete
  7. I loved the staircase with the teal door and lantern, and the secret deal room and the basement and the cat door! What is shopping like there--now I am curious :)

    ReplyDelete
  8. To me, it is so magical. I am speaking as one who lives where there is not history-east coast of Vancouver Island, Canada...Thank you, Magali for the tour.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad you enjoyed it! Vancouver has the prettiest natural setting. I've always wanted to visit!

      Delete
  9. I really, really, really want to go to France. This town looks so quaint and interesting. I love old buildings, especially when the have stone spiral staircases!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thank you for the great tour! The past is ever so interesting, it must be remembered... As for "the story of your life" (always going in the oppsite direction) : it means that you are special, unique, with your own way to go. You definitely are not a sheep, Magali, you do not follow the herd. Thank God for that ;-D Marcy

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for stopping by! I'm used to not follow the herd, now! It has its charm!

      Delete
  11. What a wonderful tour!! But I had to get a magnifying glass in order to see Magali!!! Clearly you need to fix the zoom on your camera. =D

    xoxo
    -andi

    ReplyDelete
  12. I love it when you take us on tours. Always interesting. I have my own little list of places that I hope to see after reading some of these posts.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Great tour! Thank you for the visit!

    ReplyDelete
  14. How beautiful is this place on the seashore! I love the stone buildings with the tall windows. The tour of this beautiful old mansion was delightful. I do love the 'sea-glass' colors of the paneling and that beautiful painted chest. I liked learning about the history, too. Thank you for taking us along with you! xo Karen

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The colour of the paneling is definitely on my mind for my kitchen!

      Delete
  15. Lovely tour of this Corsair's house. I'd like to sneak that chest away with me too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Maybe we should go back together: it'll be easier to carry the chest if there are two of us ;)

      Delete
  16. The mansion is beautiful. I especially like the white dresser. Thanks for stopping by my Metz, France post!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It seems the dresser is everyone's favourite! Thanks for stopping by!

      Delete
  17. Bonjour,

    J'ai également visité la cité de Saint Malo, il y a trois ans, très belle ville ainsi que la Malouinière qui m'a beaucoup plus.
    Par contre la cité intra-muros a été détruite à 80 % par les alliés (américain). La cité a été reconstruite dan un style "historisant" mais non, à l'identique. Les remparts sont eux authentiques. Seul quelques constructions ont fait l'objet d'une reconstruction à l'identique grâce aux vieilles pierres récupérées, numérotées et réemployées. Il ne faut pas oublier que se sont les alliés (américian) qui ont causé le plus de dégâts lors des bombardements approximatifs, des villes et villages normands détruits à 90 %. Une bien triste époque.

    Fleur

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Fleur,
      D'après ce que j'ai lu, l'hôtel d'Asfeld est la seule maison d'armateur de cette époque à avoir survécu intra muros. Les autres ont effectivement toutes été détruites. J'espère retourner à Saint-Malo pour un reportage sur la ville un de ces jours et j'évoquerai alors l'histoire compliquée des bâtiments. Merci en tout cas d'apporter ces précisions dans votre commentaire.
      Magali

      Delete
  18. Thanks for the tour. You have so much history! In my little rural area, we have so little!
    St. Malo is on my list for my (hoped for) next visit to France.
    Thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Saint-Malo is definitely a lovely city to visit. I hope you can cross it from your list someday!

      Delete
  19. Dear Magali,
    as allways - a beautiful journey! It is great, that you made it that easy for us, to follow your wandering around the cottage! Thanks for your nice comment on the new header, I have changed it again, as the flowers have opened now...
    How is your ankle? And your garden? Looking forward to your new posts (when is the kitchen going to arrive?)
    Yours Sarah

    ReplyDelete
  20. So interesting, love the cat door! Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  21. Je garde un très bon souvenir de cette visite et des anecdotes du propriétaire-guide... et un bon souvenir de nos achats de macarons et la dégustation dans le bien sympathique bistrot.

    ReplyDelete
  22. Simply stunning. Can you only image what it would have been like to live in that era. And image the scent of all those spices! Great post, love your wandering around. Diane
    P.S. Hope you are enjoying that hot weather! lol

    ReplyDelete
  23. How over the top gorgeous !!!
    And by the way - it's 14 degrees here today - warmer than Brittany lol - forget the tank top - I'm looking for my bathing suit!
    Happy weekend Magali!
    XOX

    ReplyDelete
  24. Oh, thanks for the little French vacation. We are heading to our capital - Sacramento - next week, but it is nowhere near as exciting, or as old, as St. Malo.

    ReplyDelete
  25. Oh, thank you for another lovely tour, the buildings look so large and impressive. That chest definitely belongs in your house and I love all the gorgeous panelling, so pretty with the gold outlines.

    ReplyDelete
  26. I love this! I keep telling the husband that we are going to move to France someday and this just reminds me why we have to get there soon. I love the history, love the colors, love the stories. I was reading in a magazine about the lace caps women wear in Brittany, it was fun to see all the different styles.

    ReplyDelete
  27. Thank you for the tour. I really enjoyed it. It is so interesting...christine

    ReplyDelete
  28. Hi! This was a wonderful tour! Lovely photos of a beautiful country. I am new to your blog and am also your newest follower.

    Judy

    ReplyDelete
  29. What an amazing tour of such an elegant house, with lots of hidden treasures! I love the cat door and the history of the curfew. xx

    ReplyDelete
  30. Oh that was such a fun tour! Thank you...it took me away..to your corner of the world..and YES I pondered how I would help you sneak out that little chest :)

    ReplyDelete
  31. What a fantastic post, Magali! I so enjoy your tours and the history behind the places you show us. The mansion is drop dead gorgeous. That chest? Yes, I would notice if you took it and I'd be taking it from you when you weren't looking. :) ~ Nancy

    ReplyDelete
  32. This wonderful tour warmed my heart even if it was a bit chilly outdoors! Great photo of you. lol!
    hugs,
    Jann

    ReplyDelete
  33. I really enjoy when you show us around...it was great fun to go on this tour with you! I'm just catching up on my blog reading after being away...looking forward to seeing what you've done in the cottage.

    ReplyDelete

It makes me so happy to read your comments! Let me know you stopped by!
J'adore lire vos commentaires. N'hésitez pas à vous joindre à cette discussion multi-lingue.